I began my Helsinki posts with an exploration of Seurasaari, one of the capital’s 315 islands, but now I want to put our feet back on solid ground and show you what the mainland has to offer. Helsinki is a major stop on the Baltic Sea cruise ship circuit and Central Helsinki becomes a crowded place between 9:00-17:00 when the daytrippers swarm the area like locusts; groups of lemmings following guides with colorful umbrellas and flags on sticks.
Some tips on dealing with the daytrippers: visit the famous landmarks and important buildings before breakfast or in the evenings. The crowds tend to stick to a tried and true path and anything even slightly out of the way is ignored (most cruise ships only allow 7-8 hours before you have to be back onboard, causing most to strictly keep to the highlights). Take advantage of this and spend the late mornings and afternoons in the neighborhoods outside the city center.
Uspenskin Katedraali
Ok, I lied. The Uspenskin Katedraali is actually on the island of Katajanokka, but it’s a five-minute walk over the footbridge from the mainland and the cathedral is a major stop on the downtown tourist loop so I’m including it in this post. (It’s my blog- I make the rules!) Also, I stayed at the Eurohostel on Katajanokka, and although the hostel was one of my least favorite hostels I’ve ever stayed at, the island itself is lovely and is in walking distance of downtown without being directly amidst its hustle and bustle.
The cathedral was built in 1868 by the Russian Orthodox Church, but after Finland’s independence from Russia in 1917, the building changed hands and is currently the largest cathedral of the Finnish Orthodox Church. As beautiful as the Uspenskin Katedraali’s red bricks may look in the light of day, it is even more stunning in the early evening and then later again when it is illuminated at night.
Helsingin Kaupunginmuseo (Helsinki City Museum)
This free(!) museum is a perfect place to develop a sense of Helsinki’s history. From the 13th Century onwards, Finland was a part of the Kingdom of Sweden and its Swedish heritage is still evident today. Finnish and Swedish are both official languages (Sami is also an official language in Northern Finland) and all signage in the capital is written in both languages. Truthfully, only 5% of the population speaks Swedish as a first language compared to the 90% who speak Finnish; English is more likely to be heard as a second language in Helsinki than Swedish.
In 1809, Sweden lost the territory of Finland to Russia, and the would-be nation became a Grand Duchy of the Russian Empire. This arrangement lasted until the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917 when the Finns seized the opportunity and declared independence, remaining so ever since. The museum traces Helsinki’s roots from Swedish to Russian and finally to its transformation into the Finnish capital. The exhibits are arranged thematically rather than chronologically- always a better choice.
Don’t forget to check out the special exhibit on the top floor; I was treated to “Helsinki Clubbing,” a look into the 1980s and 90s club scene that helped push the boundaries of electronica and techno music. The clubs also provided a haven for the Finnish gay community, which enjoys some of the strongest legal rights and protections in the world.
Senaatintori (Senate Square)
Senaatintori is Helsinki’s central square and is flanked by several important buildings, including the Prime Minister’s Office (former Senate), Helsinki University and Helsinki Cathedral. Senaatintori and the surrounding buildings were designed by Carl Ludwig Engel, who was responsible for a majority of Helsinki’s classic architecture built between 1820-40. In addition to the buildings above, he also is credited with the City Hall, National Library and Helsinki’s first theater. Engel’s central meeting point is positively swamped during the day, but as you can see, by 19:00 you might just have the place to yourself.
Helsingin Tuomiokirkko (Helsinki Cathedral)
The Helsingin Tuomiokirkko was Engel’s most ambitious project- one that he spent nearly twenty years overseeing- and it still required an extra twelve years to complete after his death. One nice thing about the Lutheran church is that it’s open until midnight daily, giving one no reason to fight the crowds during the day to see the interior. The cathedral is visible from most of the downtown area, making it a nice reference point when you’re first trying to find your bearings.
Kaupungintalo (City Hall)
Just south of Senaatintori is another Engel staple, the powder blue Kaupungintalo. Helsinki’s architect never intended for the building to be used as City Hall, but rather as the capital’s most luxurious hotel, giving wealthy guests spectacular views of Helsinki’s waterfront. After eighty years, the city purchased the hotel in 1913 and it has housed government offices there ever since.
Esplanadi
Engel, not wanting to neglect Helsinki’s need for green spaces, came up with the Esplanadi, a park that stretches for four blocks smack into downtown. It is in the corner of the Esplanadi that you can find Engel’s premiere theater, as well as a bandstand and several restaurants. The city provides free WiFi in the park, making it a natural spot for people to grab a bench and hang out.
Kansalliskirjasto (National Library)
Despite the Kansalliskirjasto’s central location, it remains one of the best-kept secrets in Helsinki. Engel designed the initial structure, but the breathtaking rotunda wasn’t added until 1906. Interestingly, the bulk of the library’s books are stored in a bunker 18m (60ft) underground. As long as you’re respectfully quiet, visitors are free to roam the library and take photos.
Säätytalo (House of Estates) & Ritarihuone (House of Nobility)
As is common with other European nations’ histories, Finland once had an Estate system, wherein the nobility was granted the greatest privileges and powers. The Estates remained in place until 1913 and many of the historic buildings used by the nobility are still standing in the historic center. Few are open to the public, but their surrounding gardens are often free to explore and the architecture is worth taking a gander at.
The Ritarihuone, built in 1862, was where members of the nobility came to be registered and announced to Helsinki society in something akin to a debutante ball in the United States. Today the Ritarihuone is used an archive for Estate history and the peaceful garden in front is a popular spot for Finns to chill out.
The Säätytalo was a precursor to the Finnish Parliament during the time of the Estates. The Diet of Finland convened here before sweeping reforms took place in the early 1900s as the Grand Duchy prepared to break free from Russia, which resulted in a bloody Civil War while the rest of Europe was entrenched in WWI. The grandiose building, located one block north of Senaatintori, is now used for state functions and special events.
Rautatientori (Railway Square)
Senaatintori may be the historical and architectural epicenter of Helsinki, but Rautatientori is the modern beating heart. As Helsinki’s main transit hub, Rautatientori is (you guessed it) adjacent to the Helsingin päärautatieasema (Helsinki Central Station). There’s also a Metro station, numerous tram stops, a bus depot and the terminus for the local “loop” train that goes out to the airport and back. Given the high number of commuters passing through Rautatientori every day, the square is a perfect place to find coffee shops, ATMs and grocery/convenience stores.
The busy nexus is also home to two Finnish artistic institutions: The Ateneum (or National Gallery) and Suomen Kansallisteatteri (Finnish National Theater). I’ll discuss the Ateneum in another post, but the Suomen Kansallisteatteri is home to the oldest Finnish-language theater company in the country. The organization was rather nomadic, bringing theater production across the city and Grand Duchy until this permanent residence was built for them in 1902. The theater is reportedly haunted by several great Finnish actors’ ghosts who can’t seem to leave this mortal coil.
Although Helsinki is in many ways an ultra-modern city, the historic downtown area has been well-preserved and maintained. Take your time to enjoy the fruits of Engels’ labors and take a peek into what life looked like during Finland’s time as a Grand Duchy of Mother Russia.
