Welcome to my first post on the more-than-meets-the-eye capital of Latvia. Here’s to exploring a new country and a new capital! (So, why does my introduction to Rīga feel like a cut and paste job with my first post about Tallinn?)
First of all, the Baltic countries of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, while culturally independent, share a closely-tied modern history. Secondly, the capital cities have similar layouts and most people visiting for a day or two rarely seem to venture outside the historical centers.
Vecrīga (Old Rīga), much like Vanalinn (Old Town) in Tallinn, is the UNESCO-protected, medieval center of Rīga. Also, like Vanalinn, Vecrīga is lovely, picturesque and the least-interesting part of Rīga. Around every corner is another postcard-ready shot, but beauty, as they say, is only skin deep. Still, it’s highly unlikely that you would ever visit Rīga and not swing through Vecrīga, so let’s take a moment to check out the highlights before I delve into the good stuff.
Melngalvju Nams (House of the Blackheads)
If there’s one building that acts as an ambassador for the splendor of Vecrīga, it’s Melngalvju Nams (House of the Blackheads). Its imposing facade stretching across an entire side of Rātslaukums (Town Hall Square), Melngalvju Nams was originally built in 1344 and functioned as a guild house for the Brotherhood of Blackheads, a group of unmarried merchants and tradesmen in medieval Rīga.
The Germans bombed the building to the ground during World War II and the Soviets cleared away the rubble after reoccupying Latvia in 1944. It wasn’t until the mid-1990s, after Latvia had regained its independence, that funding was secured to rebuild Melngalvju Nams. Miraculously, the original blueprints were discovered and the guild house was reconstructed to the exact brick. Today there is a tourist info center inside and street singers dressed in traditional Latvian garb serenading passersby in the square.
Rīgas Dome (Town Hall)
Across from the Melngalvju Nams is Rīgas Dome, which acts as the Town Hall and assembly point for the Rīga City Council. Rīgas Dome was also destroyed in WWII and rebuilt in 2003. Apparently you can arrange for a guided tour, but I was warned that this wasn’t worthwhile. A better use of your time is simply to show up at the top of the hour and listen for the bells that ring out a melody from Latvian composer Raimonds Pauls.
Pauls, who is still alive at 83 years old, was one of the most influential composers of the Latvian SSR. He served as Minister of Culture and wrote music for both the stage and film. Despite being a lover of classical music myself, I’m sorry to say that I wasn’t familiar with Pauls’ oeuvre before my visit to Rīga- perhaps having his music toll at the Rīgas Dome is the best publicity he could have asked for.
Sv. Pētera Baznīca (St. Peter’s Church)
Sv. Pētera Baznīca (St. Peter’s Church) is one of the oldest buildings in Vecrīga, dating back to 1209. The Nazis burned the spire in 1941, but it has since been rebuilt and an elevator was installed that can take you to a viewing platform at the top. I was unable to view the interior (and ascend the spire) when I was in Rīga due to a state funeral that was being held at the church over the course of my stay. Don’t worry- I found an alternate 360-degree viewpoint that is even taller (and cheaper!).
Rīgas Doms (Riga Cathedral)
Built a mere two years after Sv. Pētera Baznīca in 1211, Rīgas Doms is the largest medieval church in the Baltic States. All religious services were banned at Rīgas Doms during the Soviet occupation from 1940-1989. The church is famous for its pipe organ which contains 6,768 pipes; concerts are regularly held at the church and are open to the public.
Rīgas Vēstures un Kuģniecības Muzejs (Museum of the History of Rīga and Navigation)
Ok, this is a mouthful that I’m only going to type once! The Rīgas Vēstures un Kuģniecības Muzejs (Museum of the History of Rīga and Navigation) is connected to Rīgas Doms, as it is partially housed in the church’s former monastery. The museum collection was founded in 1773, making it not only the oldest museum in Latvia, but one of the oldest in all of Europe.
The museum traces the history of Latvia’s capital from its beginnings in medieval times through to the present. Of most interest to me was exhibit on daily life during the First Latvian Republic from 1918-40. Like Estonia, Latvia was occupied by the Soviet Union in 1940, Nazi Germany from 1941-44 and then the Soviet Union again from 1944-91, when Latvia reclaimed its independence.
The most glamorous room in the museum is Column Hall, built by the Russians after they won Latvia’s territory in a war with Sweden. The hall was originally a library until the museum expanded and incorporated it into the monastery’s exhibit space.
Rīga Pils (Rīga Castle)
Rīga Pils may not look like much of a “castle” these days, but it has long outgrown its original defensive purpose and now serves as the office of the President of Latvia. In 2013, a massive fire badly damaged the castle and the president was forced to find temporary house elsewhere. Fully restored, Rīga Pils is only open to the public one day a year. (In 2019, it was May 18th, but date changes year to year.) If you happen to be in Rīga, you will be able to tour the residence and be treated to musical performances in the courtyard. For the other 364 days a year, you are free to stand outside and take a picture!
Trīs Brāļi (Three Brothers)
Dubbed the Trīs Brāļi (Three Brothers), these three historical homes in Vecrīga represent three distinct architectural styles employed in the area throughout the ages. The white building on the right is the oldest surviving residential building in Rīga, dating from the 15th Century and built in a Gothic Style. The yellow building in the center was erected in 1646 and was influenced by Dutch architecture. The final green building was fashioned in a Baroque Style and was inhabited in the late 17th Century. The government owns and upkeeps the properties today, having been deemed significant cultural landmarks.
The Streets of Vecrīga
One of the nicest ways to explore Vecrīga is to wake up early and take a sunrise walk through the old city streets. You’ll beat not only the crowds of tourists, but the locals as well! It really gave me time to appreciate the colorful buildings and soaring steeples with only me and thoughts as distractions. Take a minute to discover what UNESCO saw in Vecrīga and then put on your walking shoes as I take you outside the medieval center in our further exploration of Rīga.
