Tbilisi’s Old Town and Narikala Fortress

Tbilisi’s Old Town

As the name would suggest, the area stretching roughly from Freedom Square to Meidan Square and lying below the Sololaki Ridge upon which Narikala Fortress is perched, is the oldest part of Tbilisi and the most common place for travelers to begin their exploration of the Georgian capital.

For a whimsical start to Old Town, you can check out the Clock Tower attached to the Gabriadze Marionette Theater. The tower acts as a metaphor for the entire city: things are kind of falling down and propped up with temporary fixes, but there’s still a charm and beauty to the place that can’t be denied.

Tbilisi History Museum

I’ll admit that before coming to Tbilisi I didn’t know all that much about the city’s history. I read the brief Lonely Planet summary about how it had replaced Mtskheta as the capital and eventually traded hands between the Mongols, Persians, Russians and later Soviets before finally becoming the capital of independent Georgia in 1991, but outside of these broad strokes, Tbilisi was a blank slate.

This obviously called for a primer at the Tbilisi History Museum, where you can really get a sense of how the city developed into its current state after being totally razed in 1795. One of the exhibits featured models of 19th Century buildings, many of which are still standing today. Ambling through Old Town took on new meaning as I was more fully able to appreciate the architectural origins of the homes and shops I was seeing. The museum demonstrates how Tbilisi was truly at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, and how both continents equally influenced the city’s growth.

Narikala Fortress

Narikala Fortress, which is shockingly free to visit and traverse the grounds, is worth experiencing twice: once in the daylight hours and once at night. The fastest way to reach the top of Sololaki Ridge is via cable car, and don’t get me wrong- I’m normally all about a good cable car ride, but the best way to make the ascent is to walk. Seriously.

The decaying wooden architecture and glimpses into the residential areas behind all the scrubbed-clean shops and restaurants along the main boulevards are so worth the extra effort (and sweat!) it takes to get to the top. In general I find some travelers skip the residential areas (there aren’t sights on the list to see), but missing out on how “everyday” people live really denies you one of the great aspects of travel. If you walk into a hostel and ask everyone why they travel, you’ll hear a lot of, “to experience other cultures,” but if you really mean this then take a stroll down the side streets and venture off the main drag. The unvarnished may be a bit “ugly,” but at least it’s real. [Dismounting soapbox now.]

The fortress was built between the 4th and 8th Centuries and largely remained intact until the Russian occupation in the 19th Century; get ready for a recurring theme in Georgian history where the Russians are the root cause of every problem. The Russian army stored their gunpowder and ammunition in the fortress, and a freak explosion destroyed the historical site. Truly, nothing sums up the Georgian/Russian relationship better than this.

A note for anyone with limited mobility: it is possible to climb to the top of the ruins for absolutely stunning views of Tbilisi, but after a certain point there are no stairs, paved pathways or hand rails. You truly are climbing up a rugged hill and over the fortress remains. Despite the presence of the cable car, Narikala hasn’t been turned into a full-fledged tourist attraction. The church has been restored (thorough privately funded donations), but little has been done to turn the fortress walls into a museum-type experience.

As you can see, the view from Narikala Fortress is easily one of the best in the capital; the breeze also makes it one of the cooler spots to spend a hot summer Georgian day.

Mother Georgia

Sixty-five feet of gleaming aluminum atop Sololaki Ridge makes Kartlis Deda or Mother Georgia a sight fairly difficult to miss. She has a sword in one hand to ward off enemies and a chalice of wine in the other to welcome visitors. The statue is an easy five minute walk along the ridge from Narikala Fortress.

National Botanical Garden of Georgia

Instead of descending back the way you came on the Meidan side of this ridge, walk (or zip line!) down the western side, which will lead you right to the entrance of National Botanical Garden of Georgia. This is easily one of the best kept secrets of Tbilisi; the gardens are massive and extremely tranquil. There’s a waterfall, cacti, lily pads and a wide assortment of native flowers. The entrance fee is only 2 GEL, which includes a garden map.