Despite the massive increase in tourism Iceland has experienced over the past decade, Reykjavík has (mostly) been able to retain its off-beat vibe. Iceland is one of the top twenty wealthiest countries in the world (by GDP per capita) and is consistently ranked as one of the top five most expensive countries in which to reside or visit. Nevertheless, Icelanders don’t favor ostentatious displays of wealth and are relatively reserved until you get to know them. The sun never sets in summer and winter causes inhabitants to endure endless darkness. Art reigns supreme in Reykjavík and history is always doled out with a heavy dose of mythology- or perhaps it is mythology that is afforded a peppering of history.
Here are some stray observations, a few travel tips and some historical nuggets I picked up along the way.
Don’t Let the Sun Go Down on Me
Reykjavík is the most northerly world capital on the globe and this causes the city to experience not only some loopy weather patterns, but if you visit in summer, as I did, then you need to be prepared for a complete lack of nighttime. This was easily the most difficult part of traveling to Reykjavík. Drawing the curtains and putting on a sleep mask just didn’t do it for me. It’s not about the physical anyway, but rather the psychological. It’s hard to exit a bar at midnight and have the bright sky make you feel like it was only happy hour. When the sun is shining, it’s time to get up and at ‘em.
The best travel tip is to not fight the light. Stay up late, go drinking with the locals and walk around downtown at 2am, marveling at the hazy heavens above. Sondheim really got it right when wrote:
Perpetual sunset is rather an unsettling thing
The sun won’t set
It’s fruitless to hope or to fret
It’s dark as it’s going to get
The hands on the clock turn
But don’t sing a nocturne just yet
Austurvöllur is the central meeting place in Reykjavík and downtown’s obvious orientation hub. The statue in the center is that of Jón Sigurðsson, a sort of Benjamin Franklin/John Adams/Thomas Jefferson of Iceland. Throughout much of the 19th Century he campaigned in Copenhagen for Iceland’s independence, and although he died before he ever got to experience it firsthand, Jón is still regarded as the “Father of Iceland” and his birthday, June 17th, is celebrated as a national holiday.
On the south side of Austurvöllur is the where the Alþingi meets in a rather modest, stone building. The Alþingi was founded in 930 and is the longest-running parliament in the world. Even when Iceland submitted to Norwegian and later Danish rule, the Alþingi still convened and help govern the citizens.
Right next to the Alþingi is the Dómkirkjan í Reykjavík, a small “cathedral” that is very typical of my churches in Iceland. Don’t come here expecting Norte Dame and Westminster Abbey, because that’s just not the Icelandic way.
She Works Hard For the Money
Just south of Austurvöllur is the Ráðhús Reykjavíkur (City Hall), which also houses the tourist information center. After checking into my hostel, the Raðhús was my first stop so I could pick up my City Card. There’s no getting around the fact that Reykjavík is SUPER expensive, but you can fight back in small ways. The City Card gives you unlimited rides on the Strætó bus system and a free ferry to Viðey Island; access to almost every museum in town, including all three branches of the Reykjavík Art Museum, the National Gallery, National Museum, Settlement Exhibition and the Culture House; entry to the zoo and half a dozen geothermal pools around the city. The card can be purchased in 24, 48 and 72-hour increments, and my only complaint is that there isn’t a week long option because I felt stranded when my bus pass ran out.
Restaurants, especially around the central square, can be overpriced. Food and alcohol will take a big bite out of your budget. It’s foolish not to buy snacks and stuff for sandwiches at a supermarket, and Bónus is the place to go for all your discount shopping needs. You can’t miss the big, pink pigs all over Reykjavík, and although the chain is more C-Town than Whole Foods, it does the trick and is genuinely reasonably priced. There’s also no need to buy bottled water in Iceland as the nation has some of the best tasting water in the world. Bring a reusable bottle and fill it up from the tap each morning. These savings may seem small, but they’ll add up.
Like the Pine Trees Lining the Winding Road, I Got a Name, I Got a Name
Names are cobbled together differently in Iceland than in the U.S. and there is even an official government naming committee that must approve any and all new first names that have not appeared in Iceland before. People are listed alphabetically by first name and not last name, the latter of which is not a passed down family name, but rather a patronymic pairing system of the father’s first name and either “son” for a boy or “dóttir” for a girl.
For example, if Ólafur Ásmundur had a son and daughter, Jón and Helga, their names would not be Jón and Helga Ásmundur, but Jón Ólafsson and Helga Ólafsdóttur. On some occasions, the mother’s first name has been used to former the surname, but most of the time the father’s name is still used.
Even in a formal setting, you don’t great people using their surname like in the States (e.g. Mr. Smith or Mrs. Jones). You would simply call someone John or Susan, regardless of the circumstances.
I Love the Nightlife, I Got to Boogie, On the Disco ‘Round
Icelanders love their gays. LGBT people are afforded full equal rights under the law as straight people. Marriage and adoption are legal; driscimination laws are firmly in place; pride is a major celebration in Reykjavík and throughout the country.
While there are several gay-friendly venues in the capital, the best and most happening is Kíkí Queer Bar, with it’s can’t-miss-it-rainbow-colored siding. The bar doesn’t open until 20:00, so don’t go looking for that afternoon happy hour drink, but when things to get hopping around 22:00, a good time can be had by all.
What’s the greatest moment of panic a gay guy can feel when traveling? He can’t find his passport? Nope. He overslept and missed his flight? No again. He realizes his going to miss a new episode of Drag Race?! Bingo! Calm down, Mary. Everything will be OK. Kíkí is looking out for you with Drag Race viewing parties for each and every new episode! This was a blast and fun to watch with an international crowd.
I Don’t Wanna Show Off No More, Keep ‘Em Shouting For More No More
Despite the nation’s extreme wealth, Icelanders are modest to a fault. Above is the extremely humble office of the Prime Minister (essentially Iceland’s version of The White House). There’s nothing flashy about the architecture, no high gates, no guards. It just looks like a normal house on a normal street in Reykjavík.
Being flashy and showing off just doesn’t fit in the island’s mentality. While speaking about the city’s architecture with one of The Culture House staff, she let me know that of course there were some very wealthy citizens living in the capital and they had nice homes, but it would be tacky and inappropriate to make an ostentatious display of it from the outside. It’s a completely anti-Trump mentality of gaudy gold-plated toilets and bragging about golf courses and vulgarly designed hotels.
It’s easy to quickly write off Icelanders as cold and distant, but that’s just a misunderstanding of disapproval of over-the-top displays of emotion. I heard some other travelers grumble and grouse about the population back at the hostel, but one-on-one I always had many warm and in-depth conversations the locals. You have to meet the people of any country on their own terms or prepare yourself from some serious disappointment.
High On the Hillside the Old Church Steeple Calls
There’s an exception to every rule, and Hallgrímskirkja that exception in Reykjavík. The church, Iceland’s largest and tallest, was a bit controversial during construction (which lasted for 41 years, from 1945 to 1986) and the steeple kept growing larger and larger throughout this period. Breaking all the rules of Icelandic modesty, the spire can be seen from anywhere in downtown Reykjavík, and has become the de facto symbol of the city.
I would have enjoyed the challenge of climbing to the top of steeple, but the observation deck is only reachable by elevator. It does offer spectacular 360-degree views of the city and is well worth the entrance fee. I would avoid Hallgrímskirkja in the mid-afternoon when tour groups can clog up the line for the lift and make fighting for a photo at the top a chore. Go right at opening instead and you’ll have the place to yourself.
Eleanor Rigby, Died in the Church and Was Buried Along With Her Name, Nobody Came
One of my favorite places in Reykjavík was…a cemetery? Is it even appropriate to view a cemetery as a “tourist attraction?” If you are respectful, then I do believe so, and apparently the city agrees, as historical placards have been set up throughout detailing the history of the cemetery and the locations of famous graves. The grounds are beautiful and appropriately tranquil and serene. After spending five days learning about the history and culture of Iceland, it was interesting to stroll through Hólavallagarður and see many of the gravestones of the artists and politicians I had so often heard about.
Even in death Icelanders can’t help but be modest! Jóhannes Kjarval is one of the greatest and most revered artists in Icelandic history and he only wanted a simple, plain stone marker.
Reykjavík may not always show up high on the list of most solo and/or budget travelers due the great expense of visiting the island capital, but Icelandair offers some pretty sweet flight deals; including up to a week’s layover for free en route to mainland Europe is also an option. Those skeptical should give this art-lover’s paradise and liberal haven a chance. It’s the places that surprise us the most that often have the deepest impact.
