Sometimes when we’re told we can’t do something it only makes us want to do it all the more. Such was the case with me and riding Bus 63 in Sofia, otherwise known as the Boyana Express. When I arrived at Hostel Mostel, where I would be staying while in the city, I wanted to confirm that what I had read online about using public transport to reach the National Museum of History and Boyana Church was correct. Both sights are located on the outskirts of the city, but on the same bus line, and I was up for the adventure. The hostel worker said, “Eh, it’s a little complicated getting out there. You’ll have to change from a tram to a bus. It might just be easier to take a taxi out there.” Well, that just felt like cheating and more importantly, I think taking public transit in any city is one of the easiest and best ways to get a glimpse into daily life. Taking the subway in NYC will give you better understanding of what it’s like to be a New Yorker than almost anything else you can do in the city and I like to apply that to any capital I visit too.Armed with some directions and the well wishes of the hostel staff, I set out early the next morning, eager and determined. I began my journey at Площад Македония (Makedonia Square) where I could have hopped on either Tram 4 or 5. Before I can continue, I must make a note about the Cyrillic alphabet. Bulgarian is written in Cyrillic and although you will find the occasional translation into the Latin alphabet, you will have a tough time traveling in the country without a grasp on the former. I made flash cards and they really helped me out. I will try to include the Cyrillic lettering whenever possible, as it may be the only way you see signage posted.
Single tram and bus tickets can be bought directly from the drivers, but you must validate them in this metal push-down contraption. I thought it was a little tricky to figure out, but about ten people sprung up at once to help me when they saw me eyeing the apparatus with apprehension; Bulgarians seriously were some of the friendliest people I’ve come across. The random acts of kindness they showed a stranger in their country were both touching and humbling.
Trams 4 and 5 eventually run down бул. Цар Борис III (bul. Tsar Boris III), which will take you to the starting point of the Boyana Express at the tram stop бул. Акад Иван Гешов (bul. Akad Ivan Geshov). Hop off the tram, cross the street and wait at the marked bus stop. The bus stops in Sofia are very well-marked, not only a numbered sign, but often with a full list of stops on the route. When I got to a stop I would take a picture of the sign so I would always have the list of stops on me for reference. Most of the buses in Sofia have free WiFi and the site eway.bg has excellent info on the tram and bus routes, but if you’re walking around and don’t have access to the internet it’s always nice to have a backup photo stored on your phone.
While most buses in Sofia are shiny and new, the Boyana Express is an exception. Riding Bus 63 is like stepping into a time warp back to 1970’s Bulgaria. The bus I got on was literally falling apart; a piece of ceiling was hanging on by a single rusty screw and the bus driver was telling everyone not to sit in the first two rows on the left for fear that it could fall at any moment! It was almost like a sitcom, me and a bunch of Bulgarians smushed into the back of the bus, keeping a watchful eye on the ceiling plate that bounced up and down as we made our way towards Boyana.
I hopped off one stop early at ж. к. Бъкстон (zh. k. Buxton) as there was a BILLA grocery store across the street, a perfect place to stock up on bottled water and some snacks for the day. The Национален исторически музей (National Museum of History) is located in a large park just five minutes walk from the grocery store. The museum is housed in the Boyana residence, which is the former home of the last Bulgarian communist dictator, Todor Zhivkov; the collection officially moved to this location in 2000. Being able to explore the residence was even more exciting to me than seeing the museum exhibits.
By no advance planning on my part I happened to show up on the last Monday of month, on which admission is free! The museum collection is very large, but a majority of the displays are only marked in Bulgarian. Still, the interiors were stunning and there was a cafe in the rear garden area.
After visiting the museum you can either hop back on the Boyana Express or walk around to the south side of the park, as I preferred to do, in order to reach Боянска церква (Boyana Church). The Church became a UNESCO site in 1979 and has three sections, the oldest of which was completed in the late 11th Century. To reach the church you will have to hike up the winding residential Boyana streets at the base of Vitosha Mountain.Be prepared to wait for a bit once you’ve purchased your ticket as they only allow ten people into the church at a time (with a guide) for ten minutes. You can take photos of the church exterior, but the pictures are strictly forbidden inside, even without flash, so put your camera away and just soak in the experience.
After you’ve seen the church and wandered around Boyana, head back down to the park and wait for the Boyana Express at the stop Резиденциа Бояна (Rezidentsia Boyana) and ride the bus back to the start of the route, where you’ll catch the tram back to the city center.
I may have taken the long way on my Boyana excursion, but nothing beats the sense of accomplishment you get from figuring out how a system like this works as an independent traveler. Despite moments of confusion and uncertainty that might test your mettle, you really can prove to yourself that you’re made of tougher stuff than you previously thought.
