A Day Trip to Mtskheta

The former capital of Georgia sits at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi Rivers, a mere 20 km north of Tbilisi; despite the short distance, it still takes between 35-45 minutes to travel there by marshrutka. From Central Tbilisi you’ll first need to hop on the Metro and head toward the Didube stop. Didube is one of the central transit hubs in Tbilisi; not only can you find the Metro and numerous bus lines, but there’s a train station, marshrutka terminal and a massive market. It wouldn’t hurt to pick up some food at one of the fruit stands before making the journey to Mtskheta. (Also, make sure you can pronounce Mtskheta correctly or you won’t know which marshrutka to take as all the signage is only written in the Georgian alphabet.)

Another thing to note about taking a marshrutka from Didube is that there is an actual ticket office at the station and you will need to purchase your ticket in advance at the window instead of paying the driver directly like one normally does in a marshrutka. The agent will hand you a receipt which you can show to the driver and you’ll be good to go. Also, unlike a taxi, there is no need to tip your marshrutka driver unless he has gone to extraordinary lengths to help you out in some way.

Mtskheta

Mtskheta was founded in the 5th Century BC and for nearly 1000 years it served as the capital of the Georgian Kingdom. Even after King Vakhtang Gorgasali moved the center of government to Tbilisi, rulers were still coronated and buried in Mtskheta and the Georgian Orthodox Church continues to view it as the most holy city in Georgia.

The first Christian church in all of Georgia was built in Mtskheta; additional monasteries and chapels began to spring up as the Georgian Orthodox Church grew in size and power. In 1994, several holy sites within the city limits were declared protected by UNESCO, the two most famous of which being Svetitskhoveli Catheral and Jvari Church.

All of the UNESCO sites are within walking distance of one another except perhaps for Jvari Church, which is across the river, a four lane highway and atop a hill. As soon as the marshrutka drops you off in Mtskheta, you will be greeted by a swarm of taxi drivers willing to drive you to all the sites for a steep price. I declined, opting to explore Mtskheta on foot and waiting until later to find a reasonably price cab that would take me to Jvari Church and back.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

The current Svetitskhoveli Cathedral was built in 1023 (we are only a few years away from its 1000th Anniversary!), although a church has stood on this site since the 4th Century AD. It was King Vakhtang Gorgasali who replaced the original wooden structure with the first stone church here, and although he ruled from Tbilisi, his heart remained in Mtskheta, having his body buried in Svetitskhoveli according to his wishes.

The cathedral is one of the largest in Georgia, second in size only to Sameba in Tbilisi. Throughout the centuries a roof has collapsed here and a wall was destroyed there, but overall it remained unharmed during the Soviet occupation and the frescoes from the 17th Century are still preserved today. Across the street from the cathedral is a tourist info center where you can find out more about the cathedral’s history as well as pick up a free map marked with all the UNESCO sites in town.

The gardens within the cathedral walls are lovely and worth a stroll. The photo above is also reason enough to tell you a little about the Georgian flag, which happens to be one of my favorite flags in the world. The current flag wasn’t formally adopted until 2004, but its roots go back to the Kingdom of Georgia circa 1000 AD. This flag was the symbol of Georgia for over 4000 years until the Kingdom fell to the Ottoman Empire. During Georgia’s brief stint with independence from 1918-21, a new flag was created, but this design was quickly outlawed by the Soviet government when they occupied the fledgling nation. After independence in 1991, the 1918 version was reinstated as the official flag to mixed public opinion. During the Rose Revolution of 2003, the flag from the Kingdom of Georgia gained traction as the national symbol of a return to Georgia’s glory days; it was officially proclaimed the flag one year later.

There’s more to Mtskheta than religious buildings

Present day Mtskheta is a sleepy town of about 8,000 people, filled with beautiful Georgian-style homes and having the good fortune of being surrounded by both water and mountains. All the UNESCO sites could easily be seen in one day, but if you’re not rushed for time you could spend the night here and make use of the surrounding hiking trails. Taking my time to amble through residential Mtskheta and soak in the scenery was a highlight of my visit.

Also not to be missed is Mtskheta’s culinary highlight, the Georgian staple lobio, which is a dish of beans cooked in a clay pot in an herbed-filled broth. You can also try a variation of this, the lobiani, which is the bean paste baked into a flaky-crusted pie.

Samtavro Convent

After lunch I returned to my UNESCO quest by visiting Samtavro convent, an historical complex that houses two churches and a residence for the nuns who still call the site home. There is a strict dress code; shorts and sleeveless tops will not be permitted at all. The first Christian King and Queen of Georgia are buried on the grounds and it has become something of a pilgrimage for Georgian Orthodox members to visit their graves.

Jvari Church

It’s easy to spot Jvari Church from anywhere in Mtskheta, but it’s not quite as simple to find your way up to the summit for a visit. I considered hiking (there are paths), but you have to back track quite a ways down the highway towards Tbilisi until you can find a bridge across the Mtkvari. There isn’t a public bus route either so the only real option is to spring for a taxi. The cab drivers are well aware that they are the sole means of reaching the church and will charge you accordingly. If someone is asking too much don’t be afraid to walk away and speak with another driver. Make sure you negotiate waiting time for you to explore the grounds and make it clear that you need a ride back down to Mtskheta. 20 GEL is a fair price.

Jvari Church was built on the purported site where the first wooden cross was erected in Georgia. The church dates back to the 7th Century AD; the fortification walls (now in ruins) were added later. As lovely as the church is, the real reason to make the trek up the mountain is the breathtaking view of Mtskheta and the confluence of the two rivers. It truly is a stunning sight and one not to be rushed.

To return to Tbilisi, catch a marshrutka close to the entrance of Samtavro Convent. Just ask anyone on the street and they will happily point you in the right direction. You can pay the driver directly when you get off the bus in Didube; you don’t have to buy a ticket ahead of time like you do when departing the capital.

Because of Mtskheta’s proximity to Tbilisi and the frequency of the marshrutka, you will never feel rushed on an excursion to the former capital. Take your time to explore this ancient religious city and experience Georgian life at a slower pace.