When I was planning my grand adventure through Eastern Europe and The Balkans, one of things I had to do- no matter what- was visit Pylli i Arinjve (literally Forest of Bears in Albanian), Four Paws’ Bear Sanctuary outpost in Kosovo. Four Paws (http://www.vier-pfoten.org/en/) is a tremendous organization that has recused countless animals from all over the globe. Helmut Dungler founded the Vienna-based group in 1988 and their mission has grown over the years to include building sanctuaries for tigers, lions, horses and stray animals, in addition to their primary work of bear rescue and rehabilitation. Four Paws has a presence everywhere from Bulgaria to Germany, South Africa and Borneo. The Bear Sanctuary in Prishtina is one of their more recent projects, having only recently opened in 2014. Kosovo has embraced the venture and construction is currently underway for an expansion of the park. If you’ve got a few extra coins jangling around in your pocket, this is an organization most worthy of your donation.
When you think of wild animal rescues your mind probably jumps to saving a cruelly-treated elephant from a circus, but bears have historically faced a different kind of abuse in Kosovo and throughout The Balkans. Up until 2010, it was legal for restaurant owners to keep brown bears in tiny metal cages in front of their restaurants as a means to entice people to dine there. (Why this might lure you into a certain establishment, I couldn’t say.) The bears were never allowed any exercise, often were extremely malnourished and suffered harsh summers and freezing winters without the aid of roof or shelter. The bears naturally developed a myriad of psychological issues, lacking any social skills and harboring both deep-seated aggressive and depressive tendencies.
After Kosovo’s government outlawed the practice in 2010, Four Paws stepped in and began rescuing these wounded bears. Their program aims not only to nurse the bears back to physical health and give them an inviting habitat, but also to mend the mental trauma. The bears are re-socialized and paired up with one or two other bears when they are ready. Each bear is given a placard in the sanctuary that tells the story of how they were rescued and the issues they were dealing with upon acceptance to the park. These are obviously depressing reads, but then you look into the enclosure and see the bears splashing around in the water together and happily living their lives and its hard to keep those eyes dry…
But before I get too far ahead of myself, I have to tell you how to get out there. Despite the name, the sanctuary is actually located near the village of Mramor, 22km outside of Prishtina. The easiest way to get there is by bus, so head on down to the Prishtina bus station and hop on any Gjilan-bound bus. You don’t need to purchase a ticket ahead of time. Simply get on and the ticket collector will name you a price depending on far you’re traveling; it cost 1,50€ to go out to Mramor. When I sent a message on Facebook for the best directions to the park, one of the workers told me just ask to be let out at the big intersection with a gas station and a restaurant- you can’t miss it! Well, as everyone knows, “you can’t miss it” is a sure-fire guarantee that you WILL get lost, but I was given the same advice by a hostel worker, and sure enough, the bus driver let me off in front of a big gas station that I couldn’t have missed!
The Bear Sanctuary is a good 30-40 minute hike around a lake from the highway drop-off point. I later found out that I could have rented a bike from the gas station, but whether you walk or cycle, the path is clearly marked. The August sun is extremely unforgiving in Kosovo, so make sure to slather on some sunscreen before making this trek.
Although the temperature was well above 100 degrees Fahrenheit and the grass in the sanctuary was begging for a pick-me-up from a thunderstorm, the bears were still active and playful. The walkways inside the park are simple gravel paths, often on an incline, so make sure you wear sturdy shoes and are prepared for a slightly more strenuous experience than your stroll around a typical zoo.
It’s so important get photos and stories like these out into the world to help combat the negative imagery we are shown of Kosovo in the news. When I told people, especially Americans, that I was going to Kosovo, they acted like I heading off to Syria of Afghanistan. Prishtina and its surrounding area are regions brimming with optimism and friendly faces, happy to see visitors exploring their country. Most Americans, if they know anything about Kosovo at all, will probably associate it with war and NATO bombings. Yes, that is part of the past, but lately they’ve been building a bear sanctuary and establishing a coffee culture in the capital that could easily rival what is found in any other European city. Kosovo is a land of misconception that will end up surprising you at every turn.
Before leave the Bear Sanctuary, I had to hit up the gift shop. All of the proceeds go right back to the bears, so bring lots of cash and stock up on presents for everyone. (Disclaimer: I, in good faith, bought gifts for my friends and family here, but I liked everything so much that I couldn’t part with the swag when I got home!)
One last word about catching the bus back to Prishtina: after walking back out to the gas station, you won’t find any official bus stop at which to wait. Just find a safe spot along the highway and flag down the first bus you see heading in the direction of the capital. A couple taxis stopped to see if I wanted a ride, but it would cost 20-25€ for a ride back into the city and it’s just not worth paying more than 10 times the cost of the bus.
